- 1600–1650 in Western European fashion
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Married women wore their hair in a linen coif or cap, often with lace trim. Tall hats like those worn by men were adopted for outdoor wear. In a characteristic style of —, hair was worn in loose waves to the shoulders on the sides, with the rest of the hair gathered or braided into a high bun at the back of the head. A short fringe or bangs might be worn with this style. Very fashionable married women abandoned the linen cap and wore their hair uncovered or with a hat.
Linen shirts had deep cuffs. Shirt sleeves became fuller throughout the period. To the s, a collar wired to stick out horizontally, called a whisk , was popular. Other styles included an unstarched ruff-like collar and, later, a rectangular falling band lying on the shoulders. Pointed Van Dyke beards, named after the painter Anthony van Dyck , were fashionable, and men often grew a large, wide moustache, as well. Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves, to about Gradually waistlines rose and sleeves became fuller, and both body and upper sleeves might be slashed to show the shirt beneath.
By , doublets were full and unfitted, and might be open at the front below the high waist to show the shirt. Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers and are seen in portraits, but otherwise the jerkin rapidly fell out of fashion for indoor wear. G Paned or pansied trunk hose or round hose , padded hose with strips of fabric panes over a full inner layer or lining , were worn early in the period, over cannions , fitted hose that ended above the knee.
Trunk hose were longer than in the previous period , and were pear-shaped, with less fullness at the waist and more at mid-thigh. Slops or galligaskins , loose hose reaching just below the knee, replaced all other styles of hose by the s, and were now generally called breeches. Breeches might be fastened up the outer leg with buttons or buckles over a full lining. From to c. Points were tied in bows at the waist and became more elaborate until they disappeared with the very short waisted doublets of the late s.
Decorated metal tips on points were called aiguillettes or aiglets, and those of the wealthy were made of precious metals set with pearls and other gemstones. Spanish breeches , rather stiff ungathered breeches, were also popular throughout the era.
Gowns were worn early in the period, but fell out of fashion in the s. Short cloaks or capes , usually hip-length, often with sleeves , were worn by fashionable men, usually slung artistically over the left shoulder, even indoors; a fashion of the s matched the cape fabric to the breeches and its lining to the doublet. Long cloaks were worn for inclement weather.
1600–1650 in Western European fashion
Early in the period, hair was worn collar-length and brushed back from the forehead; very fashionable men wore a single long strand of hair called a lovelock over one shoulder. Hairstyles grew longer through the period, and long curls were fashionable by the late s and s, pointing toward the ascendance of the wig in the s. Pointed beards and wide mustaches were fashionable. To about , the fashionable hat was the capotain , with a tall conical crown rounded at the top and a narrow brim.
By the s, the crown was shorter and the brim was wider, often worn cocked or pinned up on one side and decorated with a mass of ostrich plumes. Close-fitting caps called coifs or biggins were worn only by young children and old men under their hats or alone indoors. Flat shoes were worn to around , when a low heel became popular.
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The ribbon tie over the instep that had appeared on late sixteenth century shoes grew into elaborate lace or ribbon rosettes called shoe roses that were worn by the most fashionable men and women. By the s, heeled boots became popular for indoor as well as outdoor wear. The boots themselves were usually turned down below the knee; boot tops became wider until the "bucket-top" boot associated with The Three Musketeers appeared in the s.
Spurs straps featured decorative butterfly-shaped spur leathers over the instep.
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